「這36年來，我真的一事無成！真的，一事無成。」守住古洞盈豐米蒸酒房最後一分鐘的蘇師傅，在空蕩暗黑的的酒廠語帶感慨留下這番話。

位於古洞的盈豐米蒸酒房是香港最後一家蒸酒房，上世紀五十年代由司徒超創辦。廠房生產米酒、土酒和鹽酒，1967年在上水古洞設廠。蘇師傅於1989年11月入廠當學徒，逐步晉升為駐廠蒸酒師傅，直至去年廠房停產。磨碎酒餅、煮飯、撈酒餅、裝埕，蘇師傅為盈豐奉獻了36年的光陰。

目前內地蒸酒過程從拌曲、入缸到真空，均由蒸汽夾套加熱蒸餾機器完成。蘇師傅臨別廠房時對記者說，天然蒸酒的味道無可取代，「傳統人手煮飯與瓦缸發酵比較「原汁原味，但成本與風險高於機器製造，氣候與人決定了味道。」地政署人員已通知蘇師傅隨時收地，他早收拾細軟，轉職保安，告別酒廠這個「家」。他說：「我只剩一架單車，真正撤出時，踏單車到上水就可以了。」

“Over these thirty-six years, I have achieved nothing. Truly, nothing at all.” Master Su spoke in the dark and empty factory, staying until the very last minute at Kwu Tung Ying Fung Rice Distillery.

Located in Kwu Tung, Ying Fung Rice Distillery was Hong Kong’s last rice distillery. Founded in the 1950s by Situ Chiu, the business relocated its production facilities to Kwu Tung, Sheung Shui, in 1967, specialised in the craft of traditional rice wine, native liquor, and cooking wine. Master Su joined the distillery as an apprentice in November 1989. Eventually, he became the factory’s master distiller, a position he held until production stopped permanently last year.  From grinding the mash and steaming the rice to scooping the mixture and sealing the clay jars, Master Su devoted thirty-six years of his life to Ying Fung.

Today, rice wine production in mainland China has become highly automated. Modern machines are used to prepare the yeast, ferment the mixture in large containers, and distill the wine. However, Master Su  believes that the rich flavor of traditional steam-distilled rice wine remains irreplaceable. “Traditional methods, such as hand-steaming the rice and fermenting it in clay jars, produce a more authentic taste,” he said. “However,  they cost more and involve greater risks than modern production methods. The climate and the skills of the workers are what give the wine its special character.”

Officials from the Lands Department have informed Master Su that the land will soon be reclaimed. He has already packed his belongings and found a new job as a security guard. He is now preparing to leave the distillery that he regarded as his home for many years. “All I have left here is a bicycle,” he said. “When I finally have to leave, I’ll simply ride it back to Sheung Shui.”